We moved in to our wonderful 1957 home in 2022. It was move-in ready and (mostly) perfect. The biggest needs for updating were our bathrooms. Our master bathroom sink and shower stopped functioning earlier this year, and so it was time to dive into the wild ride that is a full bathroom renovation.
Below is a detailed account of our master bathroom renovation journey (guest bath post coming soon). We learned a lot and spent hours researching, planning, and managing, and so I put this post together both to document our work and also in case it could be helpful to anyone else getting ready to update their space. While emotionally and mentally taxing, it was definitely worth it!
Before
After
Preparations + Process
1. Develop your vision and begin doing some research for design ideas and priorities. I use Pinterest to search for and organize ideas. A few of our initial wants included:
Convert the neighboring guest room closet into a walk-in shower
Large format tiles
Larger window
Double vanity
Floating toilet
2. Set a budget range (with a buffer)
We have been saving for a couple of years so had a general sense of what we could afford. There are always (always) added costs, whether it be from things that come up during construction (we had a cracked ventilation/waste pipe that needed to be replaced) or things you didn't realize you needed. We budgeted for an additional $10k for unexpected expenses.
3. Consult contractors
Read reviews, ask friends and your realtor for recommendations, and get multiple quotes. We ended up meeting with four contractors, but I think three would be a good goal.
Finding a contractor was surprisingly challenging for us. At first, contractors were either way outside of our price range or within our price range but then never got back to us after our initial meeting. After a few months, we finally found a contractor within our price range and willing to work with us. They had great Google reviews and were recommended by our local Better Business Bureau.
Have your ideal design and estimated budget ready for speaking with a contractor. We ended up sharing everything we wanted, including a few non-bathroom items, and then adjusted based on what the final cost was.
Some contractors work with designers and/or architects to measure and design the plans. We decided not to do this, partly because it was expensive, but also because our contractor thought that we knew enough of what we wanted to not necessarily need that service. The plans we drew up (below) ended up being sufficient.
Most contractors do not purchase your materials for you. One contractor explained that "everything you can see or that needs your aesthetic approval, you buy," and they will get all of the behind the scenes materials (plumbing, lumber, drywall, etc.). Another contractor charged a fee for sourcing anything beyond the construction materials. Ours offered to get some things for us, so we had him purchase the shower glass, window, mirror, grout/caulk, and pocket doors.
Questions to ask up-front: There are a few things we wish we had asked up front that could have saved some time and headaches (*get these answers in writing!):
Do you build custom vanities? I had a really hard time finding the perfect fit for our space, and had no luck with local carpenters, so ended up importing one from Denmark (which I really love), however when our contractor saw it he said "I can make that!".
Who manages the progress? How often do you check-in to ensure things are going to plan and being installed properly? Our contractor rarely stopped in to check on things, and really only came if something was wrong (damage/incorrect installation/etc.). Not only did this mean that many mistakes weren't caught quickly (we tried our best but we are not the experts here), but it also meant that we only saw him when he was annoyed or upset, which didn't help matters.
How do you handle damaged materials? We had a number of our expensive materials get damaged due to carelessness on the part of the construction workers. Our contractor did end up covering the cost of replacements, but it wasn't easy and we had to push for it.
What happens if things don't go to plan? (i.e. fixes, installations, etc.). As long as you aren't adding on anything new to the job, the contractor should cover the costs of any fixes. Ours did, but he wasn't happy about it and it was difficult to deal with him.
How are the final touch ups identified? Usually the contractor will come and mark spots that need fixing with painters tape. Our contractor did not, and ended up relying on us to tell him what still needed to be done or fixed, which was not ideal.
4. Plan your design (and be open to adjustments)
We made a detailed visual plan with measurements that we printed out and gave the contractor and his workers (see below). This helped us a lot when checking to make sure things were going to plan.
Some things have to be adjusted or compromised to fit an existing space (and in our case, a small and old one).
Some things you can't know until they open up the walls. We were originally going to move the toilet, however a large vent/waste pipe was in the way. It would have been a big job to move it, so we decided to keep the toilet where it is (which we ended up liking better).
We turned a guest room closet into the shower, and in order to fit the design we wanted (flush with the floor, shower sloped down to a drain on one side), the floors had to be lifted up a couple inches. That meant the threshold from the hallway would be a bit of a step up. Not a big deal and it allowed us to have the shower we wanted.
You will get tired (and, in my case, emotional) with all of the details and decisions. The small details, if done well, will not really be noticeable once it's done (i.e. outlet placement). If they are not done well, however, they will stick out, so it's worth putting in the time and asking a lot of questions to make sure the final product is what you want.
5. Start purchasing (early)
Check return windows and policies. Some companies have steep restocking fees, which is a red flag in my book as we ended up returning or exchanging many things that didn't end up working or when we changed our mind.
Make sure (most) everything is delivered in time for the start date, particularly anything that needs to be installed early on like plumbing hardware and electrical/lighting or fragile things that could break in transit like tile. We had a number of pieces break in transit and so we needed time for replacements to be delivered. We also had our fair share of last minute Home Depot/Lowes runs and Amazon orders as things came up.
Keep track of purchases in a shared google sheet, including product information, prices, quantities, links, purchase and delivery dates, notes, and whether things were exchanged/returned. We also included payment dates and amounts to our contractor. I would not skip this because there are so many little and big things to keep track of.
6. Renovation: Tips for a smooth renovation project
My top recommendations are to be on-site as much as possible and check in as you go, confirm details, ask a lot of questions, check the design and measurements each day, and have backup plans for budget/alternative designs/etc. If the plan isn't clear to you, it probably isn't clear to them either, so it's always best to ask questions early and often. We dodged a lot of bullets by staying on top of things and involved in the process (and things still went wrong). Contractors have multiple jobs going on at once and need to be kept accountable for how things go throughout the process. We lived at the house the entire time and, while not ideal to be living in a construction zone, I'm so glad we did.
I had to learn not to worry about annoying them - this was just another job for them, but for us we were going to be using this bathroom for a long time and we wanted it to be right. If something bothers or worries you, say something ASAP. Kind yet firm was the best strategy.
If they didn't do something properly or to plan, they needed to take care of fixing it through repairs or replacements, even if it takes more time. A few hours of extra work is worth it for something you'll be using for years.
Do not assume that the contractor or workers care about doing things correctly. Our contractor was mostly willing to fix problems, but it became clear that his employees were not detail oriented or very careful, particularly while finishing the things we would be looking at every day (walls, trim, tile, etc.). We learned the hard way that if you want to prevent things from being damaged (our tub, sink, and vanity were all damaged either due to bumping with power tools or careless installation), you need to either ask them specifically to cover/protect things or do it yourself.
If they say something won't work, take a closer look yourself. They told us that our door hardware wouldn't fit, and while we spent hours trying to get a replacement from the company, we eventually realized they didn't follow the instructions and we could have saved a lot of time by just trying to do it ourselves.
If changes have to be made along the way (e.g. our floor had to be raised up a bit), check to make sure whether other things would also have to be adjusted (our toilet and vanity plumbing were installed and ready to go but were no longer at the right height). Ideally the contractor would realize this, but in our case, they did not.
It's helpful to remember that everything can be fixed, however it's helpful to catch things early, otherwise it can add a lot of time to the project. Ours ended up taking way longer than it was supposed to because they kept installing things incorrectly and didn't follow our detailed plan.
Ask for updated budgets when changes need to happen. We never received any surprise bills, but we did have to ask for any updated costs as we went and we are glad we did for the sake of our budget planning.
Before wrapping things up they should come in to fix minor imperfections like paint streaks, scuffs on the tile, etc. We went through very carefully beforehand to make note of all of the small fixes. Make sure these are finished before submitting a final payment.
7. Enjoy your new space!
At times it felt like it was never going to be finished, problems never stopped coming up, and fatigue from having to manage things and make decisions was intense. I cried a lot. Despite the bumpy ride, we are very happy with our new bathroom!
Inspiration
During the initial planning process, Cary and I found example bathrooms we liked and discussed what specifically we liked about them. This ranged from overall aesthetic to specific details like light fixtures, vanity styles, tile, and shower designs. In addition to Pinterest, we started a google doc listing out our design ideas and desires and copied and pasted photos in to show what we were going for to share with the contractor. It was a lot easier to explain with photos!
Design
I use Keynote to mock up all of our home projects and purchases. It's so helpful to visualize when making decisions to ensure all of the pieces work together. It was also instrumental in communicating what we wanted with the contractor, especially for the details and measurements.
Measurements
I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what the 'standard' measurements are for everything - how high above the sink should the faucet be? What is the standard height for a vanity/toilet/shower head/etc.? In many cases there was a range of acceptable dimensions, in others it's up to 'personal preference.' A few things were limited by the space (e.g. shower size), but for the most part we were able to determine our preferences. This is a very important step, and every single inch counts, especially in a small bathroom.
We also planned out the layout for the tile - especially for large-format tile, the grout line placement matters!
Toilet
Standard toilet seat height ranges from 15"-17", and comfort height for taller people is from 17"-19". You need 30-32" minimum space on the wall.
The toilet we purchased is wall-mounted and can be adjusted to a range of different heights. We decided on a 17" seat height.
Toilet paper holders are typically installed 26" above the floor.
Vanity
Vanity heights from the floor to the top of the sink range from 30" to 36". Standard height is around 32" to 34", and 34"-36" for taller people.
Because we have a vanity with basin sinks that sit above the vanity, we decided to have the sinks on the higher side so the cabinet wouldn't be too low. We decided on a height of 36" from the floor to the top of the sink, which landed our vanity cabinet top at about 31" from the floor.
Faucet
Faucet spouts should be ~2"-6" above the sink rim, at least 6" above the sink bottom, and centered over the basin. The higher above the sink, the more risk for splashes.
We decided to mount the faucets 41" off the floor, which meant that they sat just about 7.5" above the sink bottom and 2.5" above the sink rim.
Shower
The minimum recommended width for a shower is 30".
Our original plan was for a 30" wide shower (the width of our tile and slightly wider than the original closet). It ended up being about 31" wide and it is plenty big for our needs, especially with the large niche.
Shower niche
Standard shower niche height is about 12" (or more), 12" wide (or more), and 3.5-4" deep. The width and depth will depend on the space/walls and ability to customize. The height off of the floor or tub should be around chest height, around 54".
We wanted it to give the illusion of a larger shower so we asked for a larger niche of 16" tall. Our original plan was to have it stretch the entire length of the shower, but we decided to have the diverters near the entrance, so it started just to the right of those. Ours ended up being about 16" tall, 48" wide, and 3.75" deep. It started at around 50" off the floor.
Shower head
Standard wall-mounted shower heads are 80" high off the floor, and rain shower heads range from 85"-90".
Our rain shower pipe is at about 90" with around a 3.5" drop to the rain shower head, so it'ts around 86.5".
Hand-held shower
Standard handheld shower sprayer hight (when in bracket/holder) is between 72” and 84”. For a slide bar, have the top bracket be around that height.
We installed a water supply that also holds the hand shower to minimize holes in the tile. The supply is at about 59" above the floor which puts the spray at around 67". I plan to primarily use this for when I'm not washing my hair, so I didn't need it very high.
Shower controls
The standard height of shower controls is 40-50" above shower floor.
Ours are installed at about 42.5" and 49.5".
Shower glass
The height of a shower glass should be at or above the shower head, and shower door/opening width ranges from 22-36".
Our rain shower head was mounted about 89" above the shower floor, and we wanted about a 25" entrance width. The shower glass measurements were 90" h x 45" w.
We wanted to keep things super simple, so the shower glass person recommended having just one clip at the top to secure the glass to the wall, and the rest would be secured with thick silicone.
Tile spacing + grout
Standard grout width is 3/16", though for some tile types/designs you can go as thin as 1/8".
We wanted the grout lines to be as thin as possible without losing any tile integrity. They were able to use 1/8" spacing for our bathroom tile.
There are a lot of grout type and color options. Our contractor got this kind for us and said it would hold up well over time as long as we used the exhaust fan. I would highly recommend getting a color sample sheet and holding it up to your tile in your bathroom. Seeing it in person was necessary, it was too hard to tell online which color would be best.
We ended up going with Avalanche White (#5038).
Light switches + outlets
Standard height for light switches is 48" above the floor, and for vanity wall outlets about 4" above the sink.
Pocket door
Standard pocket door width is 1 3/8.
This is important to know when buying hardware for a pocket door, as there are different size options.
Recessed lighting size:
Recessed lights...
We used 4" can-less flush mount lights with adjustable temperature, set to soft white.
Hooks:
The recommended towel hook spacing is about 70" from the floor and 9"-12" in between each hook.
We shifted a bit and went for about 60" off the floor and 8" in between to fit in three hooks. The key is for them to be high enough so the towels are up off the floor, and with enough distance to give each towel space to dry while hanging.
Pocket doors: Both of our bathrooms are small, so we decided to install pocket doors to save on space. We asked our contractor to buy good quality framing and tracks with soft-close as well as solid-core doors. We used a standard width (1 3/8" wide).
Paint: We read so many things about semi-gloss being the best option for shower walls and ceilings, but we didn't like it at all when we tested it out as it was so shiny and reflective. Satin was the next recommended, but we also found some builder recommendations saying that eggshell was just fine as long as you had proper ventilation and run the exhaust fan during and after showers. We prefer a matte finish, so we went with eggshell for the bathroom walls and ceiling and semi-gloss for trim.
Item | Standard Measurement | What We Used |
Toilet | Standard: 15-17" seat height; Comfort: 17-19" seat height; 32" minimum space on wall | 17" seat height |
Toilet paper holder | 26" above floor, 8-12" from front of toilet seat | TBD |
Vanity | 32-36" from floor to top of sink. | 36" |
Vanity outlet | 4" above countertop | 4" above sink |
Faucet spout | 2-6" above sink rim and at least 6" above sink bottom | 2.5" above sink rim, 7.5" above sink bottom |
Shower | 30" minimum width | 31" wide |
Shower niche | 12" tall, 12" wide, 3.5" deep (or more); ~54" above floor | 16" tall, 48" wide, 3.75" deep; 50" above floor |
Shower head | Standard: 80" above floor; Rain shower heads: 85-90"above floor | 86.5" (mounted at 90") above floor |
Hand shower | 72-84" above floor (sprayer) | Sprayer is " above floor (bracket installed at "_) |
Shower controls | 40-50" above floor | 42.5" and 49.5" above floor |
Shower glass | At or above shower head height | 90" above floor (height of shower arm base) |
Shower door/entrance | 22-36" wide | 24" wide |
Tile spacing | Standard 3/16"; minimum 1/8" | 1/8" |
Light switches | 48" above floor | 48" above floor |
Pocket door | 1 3/8" thick | 1 3/8" thick |
Recessed lights | 4", 5", and 6" widths | 4" wide |
Paint | Semi-gloss or satin | Eggshell |
Materials
Fixtures, Electrical + Plumbing
We wanted to keep things super simple and consistent with the rest of our home. We decided on a white oak vanity, floating toilet, round accents like the basin sinks and globe sconces, and large-format matte white tile.
Bergen Cabinet: I spent months trying to find the perfect vanity, but all of the options I liked best were located in either Australia or Europe! I was so excited when I found Copenhagen Bath, who ships to the US. Their customer service was amazing and it didn't end up being that much more expensive than US-based options. This one from Industry West was the only other one I was seriously considering.
Stockholm Basins: While I absolutely love the look of basin sinks, I am a wee bit concerned about wear and tear on the wood surface, especially around where the sink meets the wood. We had clear silicone installed against the wall and around the bottom of the sinks to protect from drips.
Toilet: A must for us was a floating toilet. They take up less space and are easier to clean.
Shower tray with linear drain
Sconces: It was surprisingly hard to find simple globe sconces that weren't crazy expensive. These are perfect!
Light bulbs: Wet-rated, dimmable, soft white.
Recessed lights: Can-less with adjustable temperature.
Exhaust fan: We initially wanted to use this flush mount fan cover, but our ceiling wasn't deep enough.
Fan cover: We like the look of a fan cover that blends in with the ceiling, so gave this affordable option a try.
Switch plate: with hidden screws.
Dimmer switches: One for lights above vanity, one for ceiling lights.
Regular switch for exhaust fan
GCFI outlet: A must for outlets near water sources.
Hardware
We like the simple and modern look of chrome hardware. For most items we used Signature Hardware, and have been very impressed with the quality, customer service, and easy returns (no restocking fee, however return shipping is not included). We tried some fixtures from the big brands like Grohe and Kholer, but the quality wasn't worth it for the price and returns were quite challenging.
Faucets: Wall-mounted, mimial wall coverage.
Shower head: 12" wide rain shower, slim design (*water pressure isn't great but we are OK with it!)
Shower head arm: 18" length
Hand shower: All-metal, slim design.
Hand shower hose: We much preferred this metal option instead of plastic.
Hand shower supply and bracket: We initially planned to use a slide bar, however we worried about it looking a bit too cramped and didn't want to put any more holes in the tile. They installed the water supply at the right height for our needs. This one swivels so you can angle the hand shower.
Shower diverter: To switch between the rain shower and hand shower.
Pressure balance shower valve: Shower volume and temperature control.
Pocket door hardware: We use Emtek door hardware throughout our home. They have many modern, simple, high-quality options.
Paint + Tile
Floor + shower tile: Magnifica 30" x 30" - 8mm Honed Porcelain Tile in Pure White
Grout: MAPEI Ultracolor Plus FA Avalanche #5038 All-in-one Grout (10-lb)
Caulk: MAPEI 38 Keracaulk S Sanded Siliconized Acrylic Caulk in Avalanche
Wall + ceiling paint: Behr Ultra Pure White, Eggshell
Trim + door paint: Behr Ultra Pure White, Semi-Gloss
Linens, Accessories + Decor
Towels: We treated ourselves to some new beautiful towels. These come highly recommended and I love the minimal border.
Bath mat: While I'm still contemplating a long bath rug for this space, this tub mat that matches the towels is lovely.
Towel Ladder: We had initially planned to install hooks into the left shower wall. However, once the tile was installed, I couldn't bring myself to put any holes in it! We decided to try a towel ladder instead. Not only will it serve to hold towels, but will also bring warmth to a very crisp, white space. We invested in this one that was handmade in Japan, so in addition to function and warmth, it will serve as a piece of art with a story, too.
Hooks: For hanging accessories on the ladder.
Body brush: I've had this for a few years and it's held up beautifully. It's lovely to display in a bathroom and is great for when your skin needs a deep clean.
Squeegee: This one has great reviews, and I like that it comes with a variety of hanging options.
Hand soap dispenser: A simple and pretty dispenser.
Trash can: I love Zone Denmark's bathroom line, and this bin was worth the investment.
Soap dish: Most soap dishes I found were ceramic, which is a no-no for use in a shower in my opinion. I like this sleek and non-breakable option.
Hand towel hooks: Super simple, small, and made of steel.
Toilet paper holder: Another Zone Denmark piece. Very understated and sturdy.
Toilet brush: Simple and affordable option from IKEA.
Diffuser: I'm excited to try this reed diffuser to keep our bathroom smelling lovely 24/7.
Shampoo + Conditioner bottles: I love decanting things into simple containers. I bought a set of simple and affordable Boston plastic bottles to use for our shower products.
Our contractor purchased the pocket doors, mirrors, grout, shower glass and clip, and shower tray/waterproofing.
While there are always bumps and shifts along the way, renovations can add a lot of life and consistency to a space. We are thrilled with how our master bath turned out and are looking forward to enjoying it for many years to come.
This post is not sponsored or in partnership with any of the aforementioned brands, and there are no affiliate links included. All opinions are my own.
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